Marble Memories: Tale of the Gadsden Hotel’s graceful stairs Picture of the Week - Douglas, Arizona

Marble Memories - Immerse yourself in the timeless elegance of the Gadsden Hotel's grand marble staircase, inviting you to step into a world of architectural splendor.
Marble Memories – Immerse yourself in the timeless elegance of the Gadsden Hotel’s grand marble staircase, inviting you to enter a world of architectural splendor.

Welcome to our wrap-up of May’s Orphan Photo Project. I hope you’ve been enjoying the show so far. This week’s episode takes us back to Cochise County and the border town of Douglas. Like several towns along our southern border, it has only a quarter of the population of its southern sibling—Agua Prieta. Unless you’re on a mission to score some cheap Kahlua, mescal, or prescription drugs, there are not many reasons to go to Douglas, but a stop at the iconic Gadsden Hotel is one of them.

Yes, I have uncovered another grand hotel from Arizona’s mining days—so indulge me. It was built at the turn of the 20th Century by mining corporations to satisfy old fat cats that traveled here to inspect the books. They couldn’t be expected to sleep in tents like the commoners they paid. These tycoons needed a place to smoke cigars and sip cognac while stuck in the wild.

The Gadsden Hotel’s architecture reflects the elegance and grandeur of the time, with its ornate facade and intricate details. It was designed to provide a luxurious experience for its guests, offering luxury accommodations, fine dining, and entertainment. It was among the first to provide in-room toilets, fresh air ventilation (yes, that sounds like open windows to me, too), and an elevator that stopped on each of its floors. Today, I’m not going to waste time gushing over this fabulous hotel; I’d rather gossip about some of its guests. That’s where all the fun is.

In the early 1900s, during the tumultuous Mexican Revolution, battles often spilled over into the border towns of Arizona. Douglas was no exception. One day, as the sounds of gunfire echoed through the streets, the guests of the Gadsden Hotel sought refuge on the rooftop to witness the spectacle. Among them was the notorious revolutionary leader, Pancho Villa.

In an audacious display of bravado, Villa rode his horse into the hotel and galloped up and down the magnificent staircase that graces the lobby. The clatter of hooves and the cheers of onlookers reverberated throughout the grand halls, creating an unforgettable moment in the hotel’s history.

Legend has it that the spirited Villa, with his characteristic wide-brimmed hat and commanding presence, left a lasting impression on the staff and guests who witnessed this daring act. It became a story that would be told and retold, forever etching Villa’s name into the annals of the Gadsden Hotel. Today’s Gadsden visitors still search for a legendary chip in the white marble.

You want to know what I think. I think Pancho got bored fighting with the Federalies in Agua Prieta and decided to take a break. He rode across the border to enjoy a frozen Margarita at the Gadsden bar—after all; it was May 5th. When the bartender tried to explain that the Margarita hadn’t been invented yet, Pancho went ballistic. He went outside and untied his horse— Siete Leguas—from the parking meter and road back inside in an attempt to trash the place. You know, rock stars. That’s what they do.

In the 1920s, famed radio evangelist Amy Semple McPherson captured the nation’s attention with her charismatic preaching and healing services. However, her life changed dramatically when she mysteriously disappeared from Los Angeles. Authorities launched a widespread search, and the public anxiously awaited any news of her whereabouts. Eventually, Amy reappeared in Douglas—of all places.

There were conflicting accounts and rumors surrounding Amy’s disappearance and reappearance. Some sources suggested that she was kidnapped and held for ransom, while others speculated that she had run off with a lover to a secluded location. According to her account, she claimed to have been abducted and held captive. My legal staff told me there is no historical evidence to put Amy inside the Gadsden, but after being released from the local hospital, where else would someone with all that wealth and fame stay—it certainly wasn’t the YWCA.

The Gadsden Hotel has welcomed several less controversial personalities throughout its history. Among them, aviator Amelia Earhart graced the hotel with her presence during her visits to Douglas in the 1930s. The iconic actor John Wayne frequented the Gadsden Hotel in Arizona. Presidents Franklin D. Roosevelt and Lyndon B. Johnson also left their mark on the hotel during their travels in the Southwest. These visits, spanning different eras, have contributed to the Gadsden’s rich history and enduring allure.

A Glimpse of Grandeur: The Gadsden Hotel's Captivating Facade - Behold the captivating exterior of the Gadsden Hotel, a timeless landmark that exudes elegance and preserves the rich history of Douglas, Arizona.
A Glimpse of Grandeur: The Gadsden Hotel’s Captivating Facade – Behold the captivating exterior of the Gadsden Hotel. This timeless landmark exudes elegance and preserves the rich history of Douglas, Arizona.

We hope you’ve enjoyed hearing the fascinating Arizona stories as we end our journey through May’s Orphan Photo Project. As usual, you can see the larger version of Marble Memories by following this link to the web page: (). As we bid farewell to the Gadsden Hotel, we invite you to join us next week when we embark on a new adventure. Until then, thank you for joining us on this journey, and Queen Anne and I can’t wait to share more with you soon.

Until next time
jw

Technique

Capturing the essence of Gadsden’s famous staircase presented a unique challenge. Instead of the typical head-on view, I wanted to emphasize the polished marble steps and the potential hazard they posed to Pancho Villa’s horse, Siete Leguas. To achieve this, I opted for a wide-angle lens and positioned myself low at the left side of the marble waterfall, shooting upwards towards the bank of stained glass windows. The dim lighting inside the Gadsden lobby required a higher ISO of 2500, and I stopped down the lens to f/6.3 to ensure everything was in focus. I captured a handheld shot at 1/15th of a second in the low light conditions. Remember to hold your breath to minimize camera shake in challenging situations like this.

Gleaming Stainless Silos: Shining Icons of Agriculture Picture of the Week - Aguila, Arizona

Gleaming stainless steel silos in a cotton field, reflecting the morning light
Gleaming Stainless Silos – Bathed in the soft morning light, the stainless steel silos stand tall amidst the green expanse of a newly planted cotton field. A testament to modern farming and agricultural storage, these gleaming giants symbolize the promise of a bountiful harvest.

Welcome back to the third image in our May orphan photos project. We hope you’ve been enjoying the journey so far. Last week, we took a nostalgic look at some old farm equipment, but we’re shifting gears to bring you something new, and I didn’t have to travel far to find this week’s subject.

During our travels, Queen Anne and I often find ourselves driving through the charming town of Aguila—though calling it a town may be a bit generous. It’s more like where the tumbleweeds stop to stretch their legs, and the cacti gather for a gossip session. It has been the subject of my playful jesting in the past, but today I’ll take a lighter tone. Aguila is situated along route US 60, west of Wickenburg, and as I’ve mentioned before, it serves as the quickest route for Queen Anne and me to reach Interstate 10. On one of our recent journeys through Aguila, a remarkable sight caught my attention—a magnificent set of silos erected on a cotton farm. Their towering presence against the horizon immediately captured my imagination. As a photographer, I’m always searching for unique and captivating subjects. These silos presented the perfect opportunity to catch something unique.

Regarding my photography, I enjoy sharing my work with a broad audience, and one platform that has been instrumental in reaching a larger community is Unsplash. For those who may not be familiar, Unsplash is a platform where photographers can showcase and share their high-resolution images, allowing anyone to download and utilize them freely. I take great pleasure in contributing to this platform, and I currently have around 100 of my photos available there. (You can check out my Unsplash portfolio here :[https://unsplash.com/@jcw].

Among the images, I have posted on Unsplash, two particular silo photos have garnered significant attention. These silo images, which I previously captured and uploaded, have become some of the most popular in my collection. The two silo photos alone have amassed over 1.5 million views and have been downloaded more than 1,100 times. This positive reception motivated me to seek out new and captivating silos to add to my Unsplash portfolio, and that’s where this photo comes into play. Who would have thought that a collection of silos could attract so much attention? Move over cute puppies and stunning landscapes; it’s time for the silos to shine. Maybe they have some secret magnetism, or perhaps it’s just the allure of all that grain storage. Either way, these silos have become the unlikely celebrities of the photography world.

When I laid eyes on these gleaming stainless silos in Aguila, I knew they possessed the potential to enhance my Unsplash portfolio and further boost my numbers. I took this photo with a mixture of artistic vision and a touch of self-interest, fully aware that the unique beauty of these silos would resonate with viewers. It’s fascinating how an ordinary subject like silos can captivate and draw the attention of so many people.

Ultimately, my decision to capture this image was driven by a desire to continue sharing my work with a larger audience and expand my presence on platforms like Unsplash. The allure of these silos and the previous success I’ve experienced with similar images solidified my belief that this photograph would be a valuable addition to my Unsplash portfolio.

When you gaze upon this photo, it’s like sipping a Pousse-Cafe, with each tier offering its delightful flavor (If you have no idea of what I’m referring to, here is a recipe: https://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/the-pousse-cafe-no-1-51167400). At the bottom, we have the earthy essence of the brown dirt road, followed by a refreshing burst of green from the newly planted cotton fields. And finally, the pièce de résistance, the shining stainless steel silos, add a touch of sophistication to this visual libation. And just like a perfectly crafted drink, we have a cherry on top—the waning moon gracing the composition like a delightful garnish. It’s a photographic concoction that will tickle your taste buds and leave you wanting more.

To enhance the curves in the seed containers, I find the light from the sun at a low angle the best. The tanks would look like cardboard cutouts if you shot this scene at noon. Either end of the day works fine, but since I got up early, I got a lovely moon in the bargain. I had to move left to get that moon into the shot, introducing a perspective. In this case, it works better than a static head-on point of view.

I hope you enjoyed this week’s photo and story. These gleaming stainless silos in Aguila serve as a testament to the agricultural essence of this small town. They stand tall, surpassing any yard art or decorative statues, and remind us of the remarkable structures that farmers create as they cultivate the land. The silos embody the local community’s hard work and dedication, showcasing agriculture’s beauty and importance in shaping our surroundings.

To fully appreciate the visual impact of the Gleaming Stainless Silos, I invite you to visit the official webpage, where you can view the photo in all its glory. Follow this link [https://www.jimwitkowski.com/newWork/gleamingSilos.html] to immerse yourself in the fascinating details and explore the nuances captured in this image.

Thank you for joining us this week as we delve into the world of agricultural beauty and the stories behind orphan photos. We appreciate your support and the moments you’ve shared with us. Be sure to mark your calendars for next week’s finale as we unveil a special place in Arizona’s history. It’s an extraordinary journey you won’t want to miss. Thank you for giving us a moment of your time.

Until next time
jw

BTW:

The snake count is two a peace. Ours was a 10′ bullsnake on a mission. He was headed west, and nothing would get in his way. No matter how much I tried, he would not turn around. When I annoyed him enough, he slid under the house. But, the neighbors spotted him later in the evening leaving the park like Horrice Greely personally spoke to him.

Fred and Deb’s story has more drama. Their snake was a baby rattler hiding next to their front hose. When spotted, Fred got a shovel and pitched it into the middle of the street, but the snake had bitten their youngest dachshund. Odie got pretty sick for a while, but he’s feeling better and resting at home. You should run out and buy him a get-well card.

Arlington’s Abandoned Feed Mill: Fading Memories of Cattle Country Picture of the Week - Arlington, Arizona

Abandoned farm equipment at Arlington Cattle Company
Arlington’s Abandoned Feed Mill – The abandoned grain hoppers and silos of the Arlington Cattle Company were left to rust in the Arizona desert.

Last week, I wrote about the exceptional rainfall we had in Arizona and how the wildflowers love it. Well, the same wet winter that showered our land with nature’s colorful confetti also brought heavy mountain snowfall. Since the predicted snowmelt and runoff would overflow our reservoirs, the Salt River Project began releasing water into the river. It’s been quite a while since we have had water in our ordinarily dry riverbeds. While some may scoff at the idea of water in Arizona’s riverbeds, I was thrilled that I might get the chance to shoot some whitewater rapids in the desert.

I convinced Queen Anne to go-for-a-ride(?) a couple of weeks ago. We drove down the west valley to the Gillespie Bridge, excited at the prospect of capturing the raging torrents of water. However, upon arrival, we were met with disappointment. The river was spent and lethargic when the artificial flood passed through Phoenix. The snowmelt’s aftermath left us with sluggish, murky water oozing through the tamarisk. It looked more like effluent than a river. Feeling disheartened, we started to return home when I noticed the stunning light falling on the machinery at the Arlington Cattle Company. When I stopped the car and grabbed my camera, Anne responded, “Hurry up! I’m Starving.”

The Gila River begins its journey in New Mexico’s Gila Mountains. It collects water from its tributaries, including the Salt River, the Verde River, the Santa Cruz River, the New River, the Agua Fria River, and the Hassayampa River. The Gila River embarks on an audacious westward journey, carving its path through untamed landscapes. Just after the confluence of the Gila and Hassayampa rivers, the Gila turns south for thirty miles towards Gila Bend. As the river flows past the Buckeye Hills, it enters a natural pinch point several miles down old US 80. It passes between a formidable silhouette of a volcanic sentinel and the edge of Gillespie Shield Volcano. The black rock lava flow rises two or three stories above the road and river and is known for its impressive pictographs, visible along the cliff of lava rock when examined closely. At this pinch point, pioneers attempted to build three versions of the dam. After they all failed, the highway department erected an all-season bridge to cross the river. Local farmers plant the dam’s old flood plains in summer with deep green cotton, making the little valley a desert oasis.

I’ve been to the Arlington Cattle Company before, so this wasn’t my first time photographing this abandoned equipment. The last time I photographed there was over a decade ago; the massive boom that sent grain over the road to the feed lots there had collapsed into the canal flowing along the roadside. Someone has cleaned that mess up since then. As I stood and framed the shot, I could hear the ghostly sounds of machinery banging, gears meshing, and belts squealing in protest. The equipment stands as a testament to the relentless march of time, bearing the scars of decades past, with the weathered vestiges of industry adorned in hues of faded silver and rust contrasting against the intense blue sky. However, what catches my eye in this photo is the tall silver elevator, which towers above all else, and with the sun’s reflection, it appears as a beacon against the bright blue sky. The wispy white clouds in the background are a bonus and provide a nice contrast to the earthy tones of the equipment.

The Arlington Cattle Company was established in the early 1900s by a group of investors led by William W. Clemens, who also served as the company’s president. The company purchased approximately 55,000 acres of land in the Arlington Valley and constructed a state-of-the-art cattle feeding facility. The company aimed to fatten cattle for the market using a combination of locally grown grains and hay from nearby farms.

The facility stood as a cathedral of innovation, a testament to the audacity of human endeavor, featuring a grain elevator that could lift and store thousands of bushels of grain at a time. The elevator was powered by an extensive motor and conveyor system that could move the grain from the elevator to the various silos and feedlots throughout the property. The company also built a vast network of canals and irrigation ditches to ensure a reliable water supply for the crops (and cattle).

Despite the initial success of the operation, the Arlington Cattle Company struggled to turn a profit. The company faced several challenges, including drought, floods, and fluctuations in the price of beef. In addition, the company’s location in a remote part of the state made transportation difficult and expensive. As a result, the company was forced to declare bankruptcy in the early 1920s. After the default, the land and equipment were sold to various buyers. Today, the rusting equipment seen along the roadside in the Arlington Valley are the only remnants of the Arlington Cattle Company.

Rustic Gillespie Bridge spanning the Gila River with a mountain in the background
Old US 80 Bridge at Gila River – The historic Gillespie Bridge at Gila River, part of Old US 80, features a rusted iron truss structure and spans over the water with a volcanic rock mountain in the background.

I hope you enjoyed this week’s photo and reading about the Arlington Cattle Company and the old farm equipment that still represents Arizona’s ranching history. Don’t forget to check out the larger version of Arlington’s Abandoned Feed Mill Cattle on our website by clicking here. Join us next week for more fascinating stories and photos of farming equipment, from the old to the new. And who knows, maybe we’ll even find something borrowed and blue. Thanks for reading!

Till next time
jw

Dancing Petals: A Burst of Mexican Poppies in Full Bloom Wickenburg, Arizona - Picture of the Week

A captivating view of Mexican Poppies in full bloom, resembling a lively dance of petals.
Dancing Petals: A Burst of Mexican Poppies in Full Bloom – Witness the graceful dance of Mexican Poppies as their vibrant petals create a mesmerizing spectacle of colors.

May has arrived, and so far, it has left the 100° temperatures in a closet at home. To take full advantage of this comfortable weather, we threw open the curtains and windows wide to let in that fresh warm air, allowing the breeze to blow away the stale air that had settled in our home over the long winter months. As I breathed in the cool fresh air, I couldn’t help but notice the unwelcome grime that had accumulated on the windows over the winter. I thought, “Geez, it’s already time for spring cleaning.” Armed with the remains of a five-year-old bottle of Windex, I dove headfirst into restoring our crystal-clear view of the neighbor’s houses. When finished, I still had the energy to waste, so I turned to my recent photography files. You see, not everything I shoot fits neatly within a scheduled project. The subjects sometimes catch my eye purely because they’re pretty, colorful, or bask in the glory of captivating light. These may be image orphans, but I must share them with you. As a man of ridged habit, I occasionally gather and present these gems in their project, Odds and Ends. So, over the next four weeks, I invite you on a journey through a series of unrelated shots I took. They may not fit a specific theme, but they’re worth interrupting our regular schedule to share with you.

Thanks to this winter’s abundant rains—the perfect recipe for a natural phenomenon known as a ‘super bloom’—it was no surprise when the buzz of a colorful and vibrant floral display echoed through the air. I couldn’t help but share my enthusiasm, goading you to grab your camera and join in on the Great Flower Hunt of 2023. I hope you took up the challenge and immersed yourself in the joy of capturing nature’s stunning tapestry or at least romping through fields of wildflowers. Even the weather forecasters can’t resist showcasing fantastic flower shots as their backgrounds.

In this week’s photo—Dancing Petals—I present a patch of Mexican poppies, their bright petals basking in the warm afternoon light. These pretty little flowers, known for their radiant shades of orange and yellow, grace the landscape with their delicate beauty. As I stood above this scene, capturing the poppies from a downward angle, their unique characteristics came into focus. You may wonder how Mexican poppies differ from their close relatives, the California poppies. While both belong to the poppy family, they exhibit distinct but subtle traits. With their bright and fiery colors, Mexican poppies often cluster together in patches. The outer edge of their petals is rounded.

In contrast, California poppies display a softer and more muted palette, with shades of golden yellow and orange. Their petals are more uniformly arranged, creating a charming carpet-like effect across fields and meadows. These subtle variations in color and growth patterns add to the intrigue and diversity of the poppy world, reminding us of nature’s endless ability to surprise and delight.

Living in the Sonoran Desert with its unique diversity, we are accustomed to a world that is harsh and colored in shades of brown and muted green. But when the spring blooms come, they bring a welcome burst of color to our arid landscape. The rich oranges and yellows of Mexican poppies, the electric pink of hedgehog cactus blooms, and the striking white of saguaro flowers create a dazzling and surreal tapestry. However, the ephemeral nature of these blooms reminds us to cherish their beauty while we can, as they wither and dry all too soon. Their transient nature only adds to their preciousness, inviting us to pause and marvel at nature’s fleeting creations. In the desert, where the dry underbrush seems to beckon wildflowers to replenish the soil, these blooms represent a delicate balance of resilience and beauty, a reminder that even in the harshest of environments, life finds a way to thrive.

A mesmerizing tapestry of mesquite trees and Mexican poppies, weaving nature's colors across the Sonoran Desert canvas.
Nature’s Tapestry: Mesquite Trees and Mexican Poppies Painting the Desert Canvas – Witness the masterpiece of nature’s brush as mesquite trees and Mexican poppies paint a vibrant tapestry across the desert canvas.

If you’re eager to see a larger version of these Dancing Petals, you can check out the photo on the web by clicking here. Stay tuned for the next installment of Odds and Ends, where we’ll explore two different eras of farming equipment. Join us as we travel through time, delving into the captivating tale of an abandoned grain hopper that stands as a testament to a bygone era and the shiny new silos that mark the modern age of agriculture. Through these odds and ends, we’ll unravel the mysteries and stories within these two vastly different pieces of farm equipment. Until then, cherish the beauty around you, for it may be as short-lived as the delicate dance of the Mexican poppies.

Till next time
jw

BTW:

Queen Anne must not be feeling well. She didn’t get out of bed at 2 am and watch the coronation of King Charles throughout the night. She settled on watching the reruns—without wearing her usual Tierra. You should offer your wishes if you bump into her along the road.

Vintage Charm: A Festive Window Display Bisbee, Arizona

A festive window display showcasing a vintage Chambers gas stove and Christmas decorations.
Vintage Charm – Step back in time with a charming window display featuring a vintage Chambers gas stove and festive Christmas decor.

Prepare to embark on a mouthwatering adventure as we take a bite out of Bisbee’s culinary scene. My first visit to the old mining town was on a double date with another couple. In the Phoenix paper, we read a feature story about the Copper Queen Hotel restoration that convinced us to explore it firsthand. After checking into the hotel, Dick and I went out to find a beer while the girls refreshed themselves. We only walked a block to the Brewery Gulch corner before we were overcome with the aroma of tortillas fresh off the press. We went inside the tortilleria and bought a half dozen—still warm—a couple of Fantas and a stick of butter. Since there weren’t any tables, we sat on the front stairs, let the butter melt on the warm corn delicacies, and then wolfed them down in a few bites. That delightful moment sealed my love affair with Bisbee.

Let’s be honest; I’m a foodie. I know that because when we redid our kitchen, I insisted on a six-burner gas stove; I replaced my college-era Farah Fawcett poster with one of Alton Brown; I buy cookbooks and never use them. My cupboard is full of spice jars arranged in alphabetical order. Maybe, one of the reasons why Queen Anne and I have stayed together for 35 years is a vow that she cooed on a date, “You cook, and I’ll clean.” By sharing my dirty little secret with you, I hope you’ll understand why we try to discover the best local cuisines during our overnight photo trips. As I’ve previously written, it disappoints us when our choices are limited to Burger King, Taco Bell, or Pizza Hut. Bisbee doesn’t disappoint.

When I checked TripAdvisor this morning, there were over 30 Bisbee restaurants, and the list didn’t include the dozen or so food trucks operating in Cochise County. That’s too much food for one man to tackle, so I’ll share a selection of places that Queen Anne and I recommend.

Breakfast— Bisbee Breakfast Club (TripAdvisor #3): Start your day with a hearty breakfast at the Bisbee Breakfast Club, a must-visit spot. This local favorite serves delicious breakfast and brunch options, including pancakes, omelets, and breakfast burritos. The Breakfast Club is down Highway 80 in Lowell at the head of Erie Street.

Lunch—Le Cornucopia Café (TripAdvisor #1): An American café that features soups and sandwiches. Its customers rave about the fresh ingredients, generous proportions, and friendly staff. The café is located downtown on the main street (In last week’s picture, it’s the third building from the left). They’re open for lunch on most weekdays, dinners on Friday and Saturday, and Sunday Brunch.

Dinner—Café Roka (TripAdvisor #2): Known for its upscale dining experience, Café Roka offers a seasonal menu featuring creative fusion cuisine. Their dishes incorporate local ingredients and flavors, resulting in a memorable culinary experience. This is my go-to spot for an upscale dinner in Bisbee. While it leans toward the pricier side, it’s a YOLO experience. Café Roka is also on Bisbee’s main street, almost directly across from Le Cornucopia.

Bar Food— Old Bisbee Brewing Company (TripAdvisor # 8): If you’re a beer enthusiast, stop by Old Bisbee Brewing Company. This local brewery offers a range of handcrafted beers, including IPAs, lagers, and seasonal brews. Pair your beer with their pub-style food for a satisfying meal. The brewing company is a short walk-up Brewery Gulch.

Mexican—If you’re looking for authentic Mexican food, Douglas and Agua Prieta are only 30 miles away, and Naco is even closer. You can’t get any more authentic Mexican food than in Mexico—where they just call it food. As a word of caution, stay away from unbottled water and ice, and wear a bulletproof vest.

Before I move on, there’s one more place I think you should experience. It’s the Spirit Room at the Copper Queen Hotel. The restaurant is low on the TripAdvisor totem pole because the food isn’t inspiring, but I feel that the hotel’s grand history and mystique are food for the soul, so you should try it at least once.

You may wonder what sparked our appetite to delve into the delectable world of Bisbee’s culinary scene. Well, let me introduce you to this week’s featured image—Vintage Charm: A Festive Window Display—a captivating glimpse into the heart of Bisbee’s gastronomic heritage. This charming image invites us to take a step back in time, where the centerpiece is an old Chambers 36″ wide gas stove, an emblem of vintage cooking prowess. With its unique features, including the pointed handles and the accompanying seasonal cookware, this snapshot serves as a delicious reminder of the rich traditions and joyous moments associated with home-cooked meals. Wouldn’t this be the perfect gift for a chef with a retro kitchen?

The historic Phelps Dodge Company Store, an Art-Deco gem, with an American flag waving proudly.
Art-Deco Delight: The Historic Phelps Dodge Company Store – A glimpse of the historic Phelps Dodge Company Store, a stunning Art-Deco building adorned with an American flag.

As we bid farewell to Bisbee’s culinary adventure, we end our month-long exploration of this charming town. We’ve taken a Technicolor stroll down Tombstone Canyon, delved into the fascinating history of Bisbee’s Pythian Castle, immersed ourselves in the vibrant art scene, and marveled at the exhilarating coaster races and stair climb. It’s been a captivating journey filled with diverse stories and visuals. But fear not; our exploration doesn’t end here. Next week, we’ll embark on a new project, uncovering the secrets and wonders of a different location and theme. So stay tuned for more exciting adventures! In the meantime, don’t forget to check out the larger version of the captivating Vintage Charm: A Festive Window Display photo on its webpage by clicking here. We hope you’ve enjoyed our Bisbee tour and that it inspired you to visit this great town.

Till next time
jw

Heart of Bisbee Bisbee, Arizona

A view of Bisbee's Main Street, with its colorful storefronts, snow-capped mountains, and decorative lights.
Discover the heart and soul of Bisbee on its Main Street, where history, culture, and charm come together uniquely and unforgettably.

You should know that I may be a sports legend of sorts. When my family moved to California in 1960, we lived in a rental home in Sylmar. Our street was at the west end of the San Gabriel Mountains, and it was so steep we couldn’t play ball sports because any balls that got away rolled down into the San Fernando Valley and wound up in Hansen Dam Lake. So, we played a lot of tetherball and invented our fun.

On a sunny summer morning, my friends on the block were hanging out in my front yard trying to fix my sister’s roller skates—the metal ones that you adjusted to fit on your shoes. One of them had come apart, and as hard as we tried, it wouldn’t go back together. One of the boys said, “I got an idea.” He ran to his garage and returned with a hammer, some nails, and a scrap piece of 2×4. He quickly nailed the skate halves to each end of the board. Once he secured the skate, he walked to the top of the street, sat down on the contraption, and tried to ride it down the sidewalk. Of course, he immediately fell off, but the game was on. We lined up for our turn to see who’d go the furthest before getting a personal dose of road rash—the red badge of courage. It’s a good thing that it never occurred to us to stand on the stupid thing, and that’s probably why I’m alive today. Within a month, pictures of missing roller skates appeared on milk cartons all over LA. For all I know, we may have been the brain trust that invented skateboards, but my real point is: You make do with what you have.

Think about it—it’s a worldwide truth. In the frozen north, they slide rocks across the ice to show people where to sweep. New Zealanders either race or jump off objects depending on whether or not the objects move. Scottish highlanders wear skirts so they can chuck telephone poles. So, it’s unsurprising that Bisbeeites turned their hills into sports fields.

Take this week’s featured image, called Heart of Bisbee. It was taken at the bottom of Bisbee’s Tombstone Canyon, looking up the hill. It’s a serene photo of Bisbee’s shopping district. There’s little traffic and just a few people walking. Imagine fully grown adults riding in gravity-powered oversized cigars hurtling around the corners, trying to achieve the fastest downhill time. That happens during Bisbee’s 4th of July celebrations, where the highlight event is the Coaster Race. Unfortunately, the race was suspended during the Covid pandemic and canceled in 2022 due to staffing shortages, but organizers are working hard this year to ensure the race returns.

The Coaster Race is an actual test of skill, courage, and homemade engineering. It has been a Bisbee tradition since 1969, making it the country’s second-oldest running soap box derby. The rules are simple: racers must build their cars from scratch and be powered only by gravity. The race begins at the top of Tombstone Canyon and winds down the steep and twisting street, with racers reaching up to 40 mph speeds. Spectators line the sidewalks to watch the cars zoom by, and the excitement is palpable.

Over the years, the Coaster Race has attracted some notable participants, including former Arizona Governor Bruce Babbitt and the late comedian Gallagher. The race has also had its share of mishaps and close calls. In 1980, tragedy marred the race when a racecar careened onto the sidewalk, killing two bystanders. In response, organizers revised the rules and shortened the course to prevent future accidents. Despite the dangers, the Coaster Race remains a beloved Bisbee tradition, and racers and spectators look forward to it yearly.

A staircase in Bisbee leading up to an adventure with railings on each side and a rosemary bush in the corner.
Bisbee is full of unique outdoor activities, including climbing up the many flights of stairs throughout the town.

But wait, there’s more. May I direct your attention to this week’s other photo— Bisbee’s Stairway Adventure—shows an absurd flight of stairs? You already know about my step affliction, so I won’t burden you with that tirade again. I’m out of breath just looking at it. They may seem innocent enough, but they’re only part of a sinister foot race called the Bisbee 1000 Great Stair Climb. The grueling event occurs on the third Saturday of October each year and consists of running up nine sets of stairs, totaling 1,034 steps, over a distance of 4.5 miles. The race starts in downtown Bisbee and winds up the steep hills and through the narrow alleyways of Old Bisbee. The race is so famous that the entries are limited to 1,500 runners. The current record holder is Eriks Zars, who, in 2016, managed to complete the race in less than 23 minutes. It’s an impressive feat that only the most dedicated or insane athletes attempt.

If you want something unique and exciting in Bisbee, consider planning your trip around the Coaster Race in July or the Stair Climb in October. These events are truly one-of-a-kind and will give you an unforgettable taste of Bisbee’s adventurous spirit. Of course, if you prefer a more relaxed activity, you can always try the annual Ghost Hunt. Whatever you choose, I’m confident you’ll enjoy visiting Bisbee and experiencing all it offers. And don’t forget to click here to see a larger version of Heart of Bisbee, and join us next week as we wrap up our April Bisbee tour.

Till next time
jw

BTW:

It’s only April, and we’ve already had our first snake sighting—well, sort of. Queen Anne found a shed snake skin on the side of the house on Saturday. It was so small you had to move rocks to see it, and it didn’t have a pattern, so I think it was from a Garter Snake. In any case, I’m hoping it’s our snake-in-the-yard for 2023.

Bisbee as a Canvas for Artists and Artisans Alike Bisbee, Arizona

Bisbee as a Canvas - . The Old Bisbee Brewing Company mural, created by local artist Doug Quimby, is a prime example of how art and culture have taken center stage in this town.
Bisbee as a Canvas – The Old Bisbee Brewing Company mural, created by local artist Doug Quimby, is a prime example of how art and culture have taken center stage in this town.

Last week, Queen Anne and I treated you to a before-and-after fashion show of Bisbee’s historic buildings. In one corner, we had the Pythian Castle, restored to its former glory by the hard work and dedication of the town’s residents. In the other corner, the Philadelphia Hotel, still in its ‘before’ state, left to daydream about what it could be when it grows up. But now, let’s look from another angle—Bisbee’s artistic side—and see what makes this town shine!

Bisbee, a small town in the Mule Mountains of southeastern Arizona, was once a bustling mining town in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The town’s buildings were constructed chiefly during its heyday and feature Victorian-style architecture, including ornate ironwork, stained glass windows, and decorative brickwork. The hilly terrain of Bisbee bares a striking similarity to Al Capp’s fictitious town of Dogpatch, known for its unevenly matched cow legs. However, I’ve yet to see anyone in Bisbee with mismatched legs. The steep hills have led to the construction of many unique homes and buildings, with staircases and walkways connecting them to the streets above.

However, as the demand for copper dwindled, so did the mining industry, leaving the town struggling to survive. When Phelps Dodge pulled out of town, 40% of the town’s population did too. It wasn’t until the 1970s that a group of artists and hippies discovered the charm of Bisbee’s historic architecture, mild climate, and rugged landscape and began to settle in the town. Since many of the old homes sat vacant, rent was cheap. But, with migrants came conflict. Power struggles erupted between generations, like when my father told me my photography wasn’t real work. This influx of artists and bohemians eventually transformed the town from a mining town to a thriving hub of tourism and art. Since the mine closings, Bisbee has become a popular destination for those interested in historic preservation. Many of the town’s buildings have been restored and repurposed for modern use while maintaining their original character.

In 1970, artist Stephen Hutchison and his wife Marcia purchased the Copper Queen Hotel from the Phelps-Dodge mining company. The property, which had been vacant for years, needed significant renovation for continued use, but the couple’s decade-long labor of love breathed new life into the town. The Hutchinsons’ dedication to restoring the Copper Queen Hotel was a model for other entrepreneurs, artists, and creative types to invest in Bisbee’s future. The hotel’s Victorian-era architecture, Queen Anne Revival elements, and cozy rooms transport guests to another time and place. At the same time, its elegant restaurant and bar offer a taste of sophistication. The Copper Queen Hotel is a testament to the town’s unique and colorful history and a hub of contemporary hospitality and culture.

Bisbee’s art scene has flourished recently, attracting diverse artists and artisans. From painting and sculpture to jewelry-making and pottery, Bisbee’s art scene is as rich and varied as the town. This starkly contrasts the neighboring town of Tombstone, whose identity is narrowly defined by its Wild West history. As a result, Bisbee has seen a significant increase in tourism, with new businesses and galleries opening up to cater to the growing number of visitors and residents. However, this growth has also brought about concerns, such as rising living costs and impacts on the town’s infrastructure. Additionally, there are questions about how Bisbee will continue to sustain this growth and whether it will eventually reach a saturation point. As Bisbee continues to evolve and grow, it will be interesting to see how the town navigates these challenges while maintaining its unique character and charm.

If Mother Nature had blessed the Mule Mountains with taller peaks and dependable snowfalls, Bisbee’s future would be golden. Legend has it that the Mule Mountains were covered in Douglas fir trees. Today, it’s hard to imagine the landscape before Bisbee’s founders arrived and the trees were harvested to make the town and shore up the mines. But imagine, with those fir trees and a little snow, Bisbee could have been a ski resort rivaling Aspen or Snowmass. I can almost hear the sounds of skiers swooshing down the slopes and the town buzzing with excitement.

The photo for this week’s post—Bisbee as a Canvas for Artists and Artisans Alike—captures the essence of Bisbee’s artistic community. The Old Bisbee Brewing Company mural, created by local artist Doug Quimby, is a prime example of how art and culture have taken center stage in this town. The faded golden characters on the wall portray a lively scene of men at a bar, a bartender, and can-can dancers. The light quality of the mural gives it a nostalgic feel, transporting viewers to another time when the building served as a watering hole for miners. Today, the brewery is a thriving business that has embraced Bisbee’s artistic spirit, creating a rich atmosphere for locals and visitors. The mural on the wall and the European-style architecture of the building are a testament to the town’s unique and colorful history.

Bisbee's "Street Art Exhibition" is a hidden gem waiting to be discovered. This alleyway celebrates creativity and humanity, from the inspirational message of "Let's Be Better Humans" on the stairs to the colorful paintings adorning the buildings.
Bisbee’s “Street Art Exhibition” is a hidden gem waiting to be discovered. This alleyway celebrates creativity and humanity, from the inspirational message of “Let’s Be Better Humans” on the stairs to the colorful paintings adorning the buildings.

Bisbee’s thriving art scene and creative community have played a significant role in transitioning from a mining town to a destination for tourism and the arts. Bisbee serves as a canvas for artists and artisans, with colorful murals adorning the town’s walls and unique galleries and shops offering something for every art lover. We hope you enjoyed this week’s article and encourage you to visit the web version of Bisbee as a Canvas by clicking here to view the accompanying photo. Join us next week as we look at some weird ways Bisbeeites celebrate holidays.

Till next time
jw